Wave Runner Winterization Tips
It is that time of year again when all watercraft enthusiasts are considering putting
their watercraft into storage for the winter. Every manufacturer provides this information
in the Owner’s Manual for their specific requirements and every owner is urged to
always refer to your Owner ’s Manual for the specific needs of your make and model
of watercraft. Here are some important tips on Watercraft Storage.
Batteries
Depending on the style of battery in your watercraft, there are some precautions
to be taken for winter storage. Lead acid batteries (white cases) will discharge
all by themselves, about one percent per day of inactivity. These types of batteries
should be charged every 2-3 weeks (as per the directions for the battery) to maintain
the battery to a fully charged state. Battery Tenders do an excellent job of this.
This prevents sulfation and the premature death of a battery. More and more watercraft
manufacturers are now using “Maintenance Free” (black cases) batteries, which enjoy
a shelf life of approximately one year. In all cases, watercraft batteries must
be disconnected to prevent any current draw on them while in storage. Current draw
will discharge a battery and it will sulfate if left in a partially discharged state.
All manufacturers do not “warranty” batteries due to sulfation so it is important
to take the above precautions.
Fuel
Fuel is more stable in large quantities than smaller quantities and fuel in carburetors
and injection systems will breakdown over the winter months causing sediment to
form which may cause running problems the next year. Fuel stabilizers are often
utilized to prevent fuel contamination during storage. Please ensure that the manufacturer
approves the fuel stabilizer you choose and your watercraft should be started and
run up with stabilized fuel to ensure it is introduced throughout your entire fuel
system.
Cooling Systems
Two stroke machines use the water the craft is being run in to cool the engine and
exhaust systems while in operation. Residual water left over in these systems can
freeze during winter storage if your watercraft is stored in an unheated area. Engines
need to be run up to clear as much residual water as possible and it is important
to introduce an RV Coolant to these systems to prevent the left over residual water
from freezing and damaging engine cylinders and exhaust manifolds. Most four-stroke
machines have closed loop cooling systems utilizing a heat exchanger and automotive
style coolant and a water pump. During winterization, it would be a good time to
perform a coolant change on your machine to ensure that the coolant is strong enough
to resist freezing and keeping your coolant system fresh and corrosion free.
Pump Maintenance
Some watercraft have impeller pumps that have oil reservoirs and some utilize greased
bearings. Either way, storage preparedness should include a pump inspection to change
the oil if required and inspect the impeller and wear ring for damage. Since the
pump comes out for this, it is also very important to and is a great time to lubricate
the driveline splines!
Engine Fogging
Several manufacturers recommend “fogging” the engine cylinders for storage. This
involves spraying a fogging fluid into the sparkplug holes lubricating the metal
surfaces of the cylinders preventing rusting. This should be done last and an extra
set of sparkplugs supplied (but not installed) is a good idea if the old sparkplugs
foul due to the fogging fluid, come spring.
Engine Oil Change
On all four-stroke models of watercraft, an end of the year oil change is a must.
Engine oil tends to get diluted with gas during the many startups that occur during
the summer. This makes the oil more acidic and lessens the oils ability to lubricate
properly. Water in the engine oil is also very corrosive to internal engine components.
Two stroke models of watercraft do not have engine oil but a reservoir of injection
oil. It may be a good time to replace the oil injection filter during the winterization
of your watercraft.
Storage
A good wash and wax of your watercraft is recommended before storage. This will
help preserve your finish by removing dirt and oxidization from the finish. Sunlight
will fade plastics and breakdown the gel coat over time. Storing your ride outside
should be avoided unless you can cover your watercraft with a proper watercraft
cover. These are some of the items you need to consider when storing your watercraft
for the winter. Of course, your Owner’s Manual must be referred to ensure all the
specific needs of your watercraft are met to ensure safe storage throughout the
winter months.
Storing your Motorcycle
Lower Mainland riders are able to ride almost all year long due to moderate seasonal
temperatures, but just in case you need to store your motorcycle... here's some
tips...
No time???...Pacific Yamaha provides high quality winterization service
These general storage tips that go with your specific model information from your
Owner’s Manual and or Service/Technical Manual to maintain the highest level of
safety and preparedness to preserve the value of your investment.
Cleaning
Thoroughly wash and dry the motorcycle, dirt and bug remains retain water and can
be acidic and cause corrosion to alloys. Polish and wax all chrome and painted surfaces.
Spray unpainted castings with S100R Corrosion Protectant. Always refer to your Owner’s
Manual as to the specific cleaning needs of your motorcycle.
Oil Changes
It is recommended that the engine oil and filter be changed prior to long periods
of inactivity. Follow your manufacturer’s recommendations on oil viscosity and type
as well as an O.E.M. oil filter. Once the oil has been changed, start and run the
engine to allow the clean oil to circulate throughout the engine for approximately
three minutes. If the motorcycle will be stored for longer than 6 months, drain
and replace all other oils such as, gearbox, driveshaft, rear differential, fork
oil. Run the motorcycle for approximately three minutes, using several gears to
ensure proper oil coverage in transmission and rear drive. This will reduce the
risk of any moisture or contaminants damaging vital internal components.
Brake and Clutch Fluid
Review your motorcycle’s brake and clutch fluid requirement for renewal and if these
fluids are overdue or close to their renewal, it is advisable to change these fluids
since contaminated fluid will cause corrosion and deterioration to the hydraulic
systems for clutch and brakes. The fluids should be clear and amber in colour, dark
or cloudy fluids should be flushed and the renewed.
Drive Chain
If your motorcycle has a drive chain, it is recommended that a specifically formulated
spray cleaner be used such as Motul Chain Cleaner be used. Gasoline, Varsol and
WD40 are not recommended to clean drive chains with o-rings in them. Do not clean
the chain with the motorcycle running. Spray washing a drive chain is also not recommended.
A soft brush or cloth may be used to wipe excess lubricant and cleaner off the chain.
A specifically formulated quality chain lubricant is recommended.
Fuel Tank
Drain the fuel tank to remove any moisture or contaminants from the fuel tank. Refill
the fuel tank with fresh fuel to prevent rusting. Fresh fuel in a large quantity
remains more stable than in small quantities. Should a fuel stabilizer be considered,
ensure that any fuel stabilizer products are approved by the manufacturer prior
to use.
Carburetors
Drain the carburetor float bowls of fuel prior to storage. Smaller quantities of
fuel are less stable and tend to break down over time, draining the float bowls
will prevent build up of fuel deposits in the carburetor circuits, jets and needle
and seat assemblies.
Battery
The greatest cause of battery failure is insufficient battery care during storage
periods, which can be recognized by cell sulfation. Review your Owner s Manual on
all Warnings and safe procedures when handing the battery prior to doing so! Batteries
should be removed and stored in a warm, dry place but not on concrete. Maintain
the proper electrolyte level, adding distilled water as necessary, Ensure that the
battery case and terminals are clean, Follow the owner’s manual to recharge the
battery periodically, generally for 10 hours every 2-3 weeks with a maximum output
of 2 amps, Consider installing a Battery Tender with quick connections for ease
of charging if the battery is left in the motorcycle.
Tires
Park the motorcycle on the centre stand for the storage period to remove all weight
on the tires. In lieu of a centre stand, blocks of wood can be used to support the
motorcycle. Inflate the tires to the recommended tire pressures. Remove all gravel,
dirt and other road contaminants from the tire treads. Now is the best time to measure
your tire depths to see if new tires should be on your gift list!
Chassis
Lubricate the side and centre stand pivots with grease if grease fittings exist.
Where no grease fittings are available, lubricate with CRC5556 or WD40 - clutch
and brake lever pivots, rear brake pedal and linkage pivots, throttle body or carburetor
linkage, stand pivots, seat hinges and all lock mechanisms in the ignition, steering
lock, fuel cap, seat and saddlebags. Spray lubricant into the handlebar switches
and operate them with the ignition off. Allow the excess lube to drain and/or evaporate
prior to operating with the ignition on.
Storage
Use
a vented cover that allows moisture to escape Remove any motorcycle cover while
charging the battery in a motorcycle to avoid accumulation of explosive gasses Select
a storage area that is free from dampness and high humidity Do not store the motorcycle
in direct sunlight. Ensure adequate ventilation and do not store near open flames
or sparks. Always refer to your Owner’s Manual for the specific needs of storing
your Motorcycle!
Coolant
Many of today’s modern BMW motorcycles are air and water cooled. When we say that
an engine is water cooled what that really means is that it is actually cooled with
combination air, water, and antifreeze. As coolant goes through the heat cycling
process it looses its ability to carry and shed heat as effectively. It also collects
sediments from within the cooling system that are formed during the heat cycling
process. It is important to the life of the engine to always have the system working
at its maximum efficiency. This means that the cooling system should be flushed
periodically.
BMW’s recommendation varies from model to model. However we feel that you should
perform this service every other year as a minimum. This will keep your engine’s
cooling system working at its optimum efficiency at all times. Always be sure to
use a coolant that is formulated for motorcycles and is mixed at the proper ratio.
Contrary to popular belief coolant actually works better mixed with distilled water
than it will if used straight! We recommend BMW coolant always be in your motorcycle
to ensure the correct type. Some automotive type coolants will have silicates added
to help clean the cooling system. This type of coolant is NEVER to be used in a
motorcycle as it will cause damage to the seals in the system.
Valve Stems
Valve stem caps are more important than you think. Frequently we see motorcycles
come in for service with missing valve stem caps. This is potentially dangerous
if you are a fast rider, as at very high speeds you can lose air from the valve
stem valve unless you have the valve stem cap in place. You do NOT want to experience
a deflation at triple digit speeds because you neglected to replace a missing valve
stem cap. (We have seen it happen, this is no laughing matter...)
Battery Charging
It is a good idea to use a battery charger occasionally, especially with LT's
& RT's with radio-stereo systems. Even if you ride your bike often, you
will have longer battery life and avoid the chance of being stranded with a low
battery. The right method is to use either a battery charger for a limited time
(12 hours or so) or use a "battery tender", which is regulated and cannot
overcharge the battery, and can be left on indefinitely. Remember that no matter
how often you ride, charging your battery will insure long life. And if you ride
your LT infrequently, and for short rides, it is absolutely essential that you get
a battery tender and use it to keep your battery in a fully charged state, as there
is more drain on the battery from radio & alarm than with other bikes.